What Annecy actually is
Annecy sits at the northern tip of an alpine lake, in a trench with mountains rising straight off both shores. The commune has about 135,000 people and Grand Annecy around 213,000 across thirty-four communes, but those numbers describe an agglomeration rather than a town: in 2017 Annecy merged with Annecy-le-Vieux, Cran-Gevrier, Meythet, Pringy and Seynod in the largest commune merger carried out in France to that point.
The Annecy in the photographs is the pre-merger historic core, and it is compact enough to walk end to end in a quarter of an hour. The canals that earned it the nickname “Venice of the Alps” are the Thiou, the lake’s only outflow, running 3.6 km out through the middle of the Old Town. Almost every visitor is surprised by how quickly the Old Town is walked, and how much valley there is once you stop.
The lake is the part worth the journey. It is 27.59 km² of water at nearly 450 m of altitude, 82 m deep at its deepest, formed as the glaciers pulled back about 18,000 years ago. Its reputation as one of the cleanest lakes in Europe is not marketing and it is not luck: in the late 1950s the lake was dying, SILA was created in July 1957 to save it, and between 1961 and 1976 a ring of sewage collectors was built around the entire shoreline. Nothing has gone into the lake since. That is why you can swim off a town beach and drink from the tap on the same afternoon.
This site is written by somebody who grew up on this lake and has worked it for a decade, which mostly shows up as things it declines to tell you. It does not name a single restaurant or hotel, because none has been checked. It tells you to buy the boat trip at the quay rather than online, because that is cheaper and better. It will not print the château’s weekly timetable, because the published sources disagree with each other. What it does print, it has checked.
Where to go
Four places that between them are the whole of Annecy — the town, the water, the shore path and the air above it.
Booking things in Annecy
The genuinely strong products here are adventure rather than sightseeing, and this section says so. The boat trip everybody wants is bought at the quay — the cruise page explains why, and does not try to sell you a package instead.